Someone said to me, why age beer, why store it? It’s to be drunk. It’s not wine or port. It’s beer. The daily dose of alcoholic cheer. Put beer in the dark and what’s it got to hide, continued the conversation, as if I were guilty of burying some personal, potentially injurious secret in the darkest and deepest recess of my mind. Psychological hoodooism. Freud or Jung? Why age beer?
In the face of such ignorance I can but laugh: why age beer? Fuller’s Vintage Ale. Lees Harvest. Cooper’s Vintage. Orval. All these boys have embedded themselves in the mockery of dampness that I have christened with the name cellar. Pride of place goes to: Thomas Hardy, of which there are perhaps a dozen, with the oldest going back to 1993 (bought in Safeway of all places). I also got hold of a case of the 1998 vintage when James was born — with a bit of luck he’ll give them back to me when he hits 18. I don’t think they’ll be his style.
So why age beer? I think the 2005 Thomas Hardy I tried the other day gave a good answer. It was magnificent, a ricochet of flavours about the palate, here some boozy currants, there almond paste, over there a rich orange Grand Marnier sweetness — all held together by the sort of balance that would be the envy of any yoga teacher. On the nose it starts off with burnt toast acridness, but before you can call 999 it’s tamped down by a sweet-sourness in the background, and then there are blackcurrants steeped in alcohol and an almond paste like calmness that is reminiscent of the sea after a storm. More fun on the palate: richness, light port sweetness, fiery alcohol, fruit cake, candy sugar, hints of brandy and that aforementioned grand old man of orange liqueurness. Its warm and spirituous, in the manner of a friendly hug (from Brian Blessed perhaps?) and the finish chimes away at the back of the throat like the bells of Notre-Dame announcing victory in Europe. It’s a substantial beer, big and bold, but venerable and capable of improving with even more age. I’ve got one 2005 left. So why age beer?
Can we make this the theme of this year's guild seminar?
ReplyDeleteMight be too much of a similarity with the wood aged one at Thornbridge with Garrett Oliver that I organised in 2006, besides I’ve done my four-part seminar series, someone else will organise them now, but you’re a member so lobby.
ReplyDeleteFunny that, I've a blog post ready for tomorrow looking for opinions on what's out there right now that are good for aging. I've only had the pleasure of a few well-aged beers, and they were lovely. Might bring it forward to ride the wave :)
ReplyDeleteBarry
ReplyDeleteSome of the other characters I’ve got sitting on the bench include a couple of Thornbridge’s Alliances and a Deus that I bought back in 2005 and still haven’t opened, I like the mellow character that time brings to strong beers, on the other hand I have a 275ml bottle of Abbot from the 1970s I picked up in a junk shop for 5p — this was not for reasons of connoisseurship but more of a nostalgic act, I don’t think it would be very palatable these days.
I have to let the brewer age things, as there is no chance of it lasting once it comes through the front door. Willpower is not one of my strong points
ReplyDeleteI didn't get to the wood aged seminar in 2006.
ReplyDeleteLegend
ReplyDeletelearn a mantra, do some yoga and all will fall into place
Dave
I didn’t get to the one in 2006 either as I organised it in 2007 I have just realised, 2007 wood aged beer, 2008 lager, 2009, barley wine, 2010 beer styles, I don’t know what’s on the agenda this year
Very well said or.... er... blogged.
ReplyDeleteI have about 50 Thomas Hardys in the cellar. I had a 1979 for my 30th birthday, it was fantastic.
Kieran
ReplyDelete50! flipping heck, look after them, I don’t think we’ll see the beer again in our lifetime
And here I was wondering if there's even a chance to get some, somewhere. That's a brilliant stash to have...
ReplyDeleteBarry sadly Ohanlon’s discontinued doing it two years ago, and despite rumours that someone else would be taking it on nothing has happened — your best bet is ebay etc. I’ve got first refusal on my son when he hits 18…
ReplyDeleteThe secret to keeping a beer for a long time is to start with a high-alcohol beer (8% minimum) that is on the malty/sweet side. The higher alcohol and lower hops content makes these beers less susceptible to the curse of the monkey butt. Another thing that helps elude the curse is storing the beer at the proper temperature.
ReplyDeleteSEO thanks
ReplyDeleteI've got a vast number of Hardy's Ales stashed away. If you think the ones from the 90s are good try one from the 70s or early 80s before they 'cleaned up' the recipe. They are magificent. The Rotal Hardy's Ale from 1983 is the best beer I've ever drunk.
ReplyDeleteBirkonian — you are one lucky man
ReplyDelete