Talking? No let’s get this correct, I am talking, am going
to write to be perfectly honest, writing then, about why I write about beer. Not,
please note, evangelising, converting, offering consent and benedictions about
beer — that will be left to the bereft who came briefly and recently to beer
and thought a mission was needed, lessons be its name, in the name of the holy
mash tun etc etc; no I don’t do it.
It’s an urge and a need to acquire the skill of a
surgeon, to peel back the skin of beer, to see beneath, often to recoil and
wait for the bus home but also to lie down in green pastures and summon up a
total recall of why I started writing about beer and fell in love with it. It’s
about miles taken, oceans and seas crossed, cities decanted into a notebook.
You can’t fall in love with beer, you can fall in love with
the idea of beer, the ideal, the deal even, the seal that is stamped on your
soul when you decide that writing about beer is something you might like to
direct your life in the direction of.
And so I think, what do I receive when I ride like
Paul Revere in the direction of beer, headlong into its embrace, letting it
tread and trace all over my working life? Beer is more than an alcoholic notion
for me, it’s a commotion in the soul, it’s the pub as coal, warming but
on the verge of being extinct; but when it’s gone people will cry and smart phone their
cries. Too late.
Beer writing. It’s people, it’s people who don’t get it right, who do get
it right, who go off the rails, who rail against this and that; it’s people.
It’s countries and of course it’s the cities and it’s the beers that the
countries and cities inspire and fire up in the rush to sundering apart what
has gone before.
And if I was being prosaic about why beer moves me enough to
spend my working life writing about it I would say: people, the steeple like
seriousness that is their history and its roots but there is also the
Treebeard-like flexibility of each family who comes along and slaps the
instinctive card down on the table and says yes, we are going that way instead of that way.
In a
continuation of the prosaic: beer has people, it has buildings, it has cities,
it has countries, it has monarchs, it has a gastronomic tradition, both
flitting between high and low and it is also the character at the docks with
the much travelled suitcase as well as the stumbler in the station waiting to
head off on a journey they’re not sure on as well as the secure-in-his-or-her station as they look through their wallet and worry not a jot; it is beer and it is clear that
there is so much more to be said about it. I’m in.
Amen.
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