This has the colour of a
reddish bronze warrior, but then in a different light it looks stygian, as dark
as the Styx (and who shall pay the ferryman?); it’s a colour contrast that
draws the drinker in, crooked finger beckoning. A thin collar of foam on the
top, not as thickly daubed as you would find with an espresso, more like thin
ghosts wafting through an arena of the unwell. Cherry, wood and alcohol major
on the nose for me; while the palate features a big Brian Blessed kind of
bear-hug of different flavours with more cherry, the warmth of booziness, a
whisper of woodiness, the big fat embrace of malted barley (a real come hither
sort of character), the tightly corseted sweetness always found in this
strength of beer, a nuttiness that reminds me of Bakewell tart and a general
lush richness that has the sheen of a oily, buttery Oloroso. I tried it with an
unpasteurized Red Leicester and it dovetailed perfectly with the salt and
buttery creaminess of the cheese (it is the sort of cheese that has an austerity
of flavour and earthiness yet there’s also a bosomy, dirndl-wearing creaminess that
wouldn’t be amiss in a Munchen beerhall). In other words, this is a magnificent
beer.
This is part of the Sharp’s Connoisseur’s Choice that Stuart Howe was kind enough to send me.
I think I'd just prefer the Bakewell Tart!!
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