Tuesday, 31 December 2013
Dose
Dose. How nice it looks, like the glow of a hearthside fire,
in which one sits in front of reading an MR James ghost story, secure
in the knowledge that such things do not exist though the beer in the glass is
corporeal and firm and believable; how snug and inviting the beer in the glass
looks, a glow and a warmth that lifts the soul even though the next stage of
your commitment to the beer is yet to come. Dose. As if in contrast to the soft
glow of the beer in the glass, the nose is an assertive sergeant-major, a firm
fruity (raspberry, but then you already knew that) toffee nose with a hint of
dried rucksack that leads—even in the middle of winter—you to think that Sumer
Is Icumen In; and then you taste it and think of the waft of ripe raspberries
smashed against the side of a sun-warmed wall (brick perhaps), more toffee
(strictly caramel this time), a creaminess that strokes the hand and a Robinson Crusoe sense of dryness in the
finish. The beer in the glass is a big wrap around the world in its sensuous,
fruity, malt-sweetness, and slightly sour group hug. Dose: this has been
Thornbridge and St Erik’s Imperial Raspberry Stout. Dose. The beer in this
glass has a darkness, a depth of darkness that you could drop a stone into and
never hear its impact on the ground, falling, falling, falling, falling through
space and time; but once you’ve got past the darkness and any feelings of
vertigo, the senses are lit up with a rainbow bridge of flavours and aromas, a
bridge that needs to be crossed. Dose: and then I think it has a Bruckner-like
sensibility, in that it brings together fudge-like caramel, luscious liquorice
and creamy coffee notes, and then there’s a piney-hoppiness, that hoves alongside
a big fat alcoholic musical motif that is symphonic in its intensity. It rises
and falls, here quiet, there robust in its challenge to the palate. A complete
beer, a beer that sends you off to bed with the expectations of the sort of
dreams that all of us wish for. Sweet dreams. Dose: this beer has been Sharp’sQuadrupel.
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